The Untold Story of Surfing’s Pioneers
Surfing has long been defined by freedom, expression, and connection with the ocean — yet for decades, the sport’s story was told mostly through the eyes of men. But behind the scenes — and increasingly in the spotlight — women have been shaping the soul of surfing from its earliest days to today’s global stage.
From Hawaiian queens to world champions and fearless big-wave riders, these women didn’t just ride waves — they reshaped the surf world with courage, talent, and resilience.
Queen Kelea: The Original Hawaiian Waterwoman
Centuries before surfing became a sport, it was a cultural art in ancient Hawaii. One of the earliest known surfers was Queen Kelea of Maui, celebrated for her beauty, strength, and unmatched wave-riding skill.
Kelea’s story symbolizes surfing’s deep Hawaiian roots — a spiritual connection to the ocean that transcended gender. In Hawaiian society, both men and women surfed as a form of joy, competition, and ceremony, setting the foundation for inclusivity in surf culture.
Rell Sunn: The Queen of Makaha
Known as “The Heart of Hawaiian Surfing,” Rell Kapolioka‘ehukai Sunn embodied aloha spirit both in and out of the water. A professional surfer, lifeguard, and community leader, Rell championed women’s competitive surfing during the 1970s and 1980s.
She co-founded the Women’s Professional Surfing (WPS) organization, paving the way for equal recognition in the sport. Beyond her competitive success, Rell’s kindness and dedication to youth mentorship made her an icon of surf culture and compassion.
Margo Oberg: The First Female World Champion
At just 15 years old, Margo Oberg became one of the first professional female surfers in history — and in 1977, she won the inaugural Women’s World Surfing Championship.
Her powerful style and fearless attitude broke barriers at a time when women’s surfing struggled for respect and prize money. Oberg’s legacy opened the door for generations of female competitors who followed her path.
Lisa Andersen: Redefining Modern Surfing
In the 1990s, Lisa Andersen revolutionized the sport with her progressive, athletic approach. She brought the same aggression and precision seen in men’s surfing — and did it with grace and determination.
As a four-time world champion (1994–1997) and the face of surf brand Roxy, Andersen became an inspiration for young women worldwide. Her story — balancing motherhood and world titles — broke stereotypes about what female surfers could achieve.
Keala Kennelly: The Fearless Big-Wave Pioneer
Few have pushed boundaries like Keala Kennelly, the Hawaiian powerhouse known for charging some of the heaviest waves on the planet. From Teahupo’o to Jaws, Kennelly proved that courage knows no gender.
She became one of the first women to compete in — and win — major big-wave contests alongside men, setting new standards for equality in extreme surfing. Kennelly also advocates for LGBTQ+ representation in surf culture, continuing to challenge norms and inspire authenticity.
Stephanie Gilmore: Grace, Power, and Consistency
Modern surfing wouldn’t be the same without Stephanie Gilmore, the Australian sensation known for her effortless flow and competitive dominance. With eight world titles, she holds one of the most decorated records in surf history.
Gilmore’s combination of artistry and athleticism has elevated women’s surfing to new heights, inspiring a generation to blend beauty with precision.
Carissa Moore: The Champion of a New Era
A multiple-time World Champion and Olympic Gold Medalist, Carissa Moore represents the evolution of women’s surfing — powerful, progressive, and proudly authentic.
As the founder of Moore Aloha Foundation, she mentors young surfers and promotes confidence, community, and self-love through surfing. Her impact extends far beyond competition, reinforcing the idea that surfing is as much about heart as it is about skill.
Maya Gabeira: Redefining Big-Wave Records
Brazilian surfer Maya Gabeira holds the world record for the largest wave ever surfed by a woman, a feat accomplished at Nazaré, Portugal. Her courage, perseverance, and recovery from life-threatening wipeouts have cemented her as a true legend of resilience.
Maya’s journey has also highlighted the struggle for recognition in women’s big-wave surfing — a fight she helped win through persistence and passion.
Beyond Competition: The Cultural Impact of Women in Surfing
From surf fashion and photography to environmental activism, women have continuously expanded the meaning of surf culture. Brands like Roxy, Seea, and Salt Gypsy have given women a voice and style within surfing’s aesthetic, while athletes and creators use their platforms to promote sustainability and empowerment.
Women’s presence in the water has become a symbol of balance — strength and grace working in harmony with the ocean.
Final Thoughts
The history of surfing wouldn’t be complete without the women who paddled into uncharted waters — often against both waves and expectations. Their stories remind us that surfing isn’t just about competition or style — it’s about courage, passion, and connection.
These women didn’t just change surfing — they changed its soul.